A master and his pupil

ਨਕੋਦਰ

Two tombs stand at Nakodar in Jalandhar district. One holds Ustad Mohammad Momin, a tambura player in the court of Abdul Rahim Khan-i-Khanan, who died in 1623. An inscription suggests work around 1612, under Jahangir. The other holds his pupil, Haji Jamal, and dates to about 1657.

Momin's tomb is square inside and octagonal outside. Jamal's reverses it.

Both carry glazed tilework and frescoes. The tiles are coming away and some of the paintings are gone. Both are protected by the Archaeological Survey of India, among roughly thirty centrally protected monuments in Punjab. The nearby Dakhni Gate and the remains of the Mughal garden Hadironwala Bagh are also decaying.

Twelve kilometres away on the Nakodar-Kapurthala road is Dakhni Sarai, a caravanserai of 124 cells around a courtyard, 180 by 172 metres, with gateways east and west. A Persian inscription attributes it to Nur Jahan Begum, with work spanning 1618 to 1621. Another attribution gives it to Ali Mardan Khan under Shah Jahan. It has no signage and no security.

The two tombs stand together in one enclosure, built forty-five years apart, one for the musician and one by his pupil for himself.

The tilework is the Lahore kashi work of the seventeenth century, and what survives of it on these two buildings is among the better preserved examples in Indian Punjab.

They are protected monuments on the edge of a small town. There is no ticket, no guide and no sign on the road that passes them.

What we don't know

  • Which attribution for Dakhni Sarai is correct.
  • Whether any conservation is currently funded for either tomb.

Where to check this

  1. The Tribune, on the Ustad-Shagird tombs at Nakodar. The Tribune, Chandigarh - archive ↗
  2. The Tribune, on Dakhni Sarai. The Tribune, Chandigarh - archive ↗

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How this page was written. The text is compiled from the standard published histories and reference works, not from a document held in hand. Nobody from this project has visited the place or read the archive. The list above is where a reader can go to check it, not a record of what was consulted line by line. Dates and figures are the received account. If you hold something better, write in and it will be corrected.

This is one of 122 accounts in Under the Company, the chapter of this site covering British Punjab, from annexation to the canal colonies.