The hill pilgrimage

Punjabi families have gone up into the Shivaliks and the Kangra hills to the Devi shrines for centuries: Jwalamukhi, where natural gas burns from the rock; Chintpurni; Naina Devi above Anandpur; Chamunda; and Vaishno Devi in the Jammu hills.

The pilgrimage is made on foot in jathas, with a red cloth, and it is one of the most widely practised religious observances among Punjabi Hindus and among a substantial number of Punjabi Sikhs.

Bhai Lehna, before he became Guru Angad Dev Ji, led an annual pilgrimage to Jwalamukhi. Guru Gobind Singh Ji's relations with the hill states and their shrines are the subject of long argument, particularly over the Chandi compositions.

Naina Devi sits directly above Anandpur, and the two are visited on the same trip by a great many families.

The mixed practice, a Sikh household going to a Devi shrine, is exactly what the Singh Sabha set out to end and it has not ended. Stating that plainly is more useful than pretending either that it does not happen or that it is uncontested.

The four hill shrines are visited in sequence by Punjabi families, often on foot in the Navratri periods, and the roads out of Punjab into Himachal carry walkers for a fortnight twice a year.

Jwalamukhi's flames burn from natural gas seeping through the rock and the shrine is built around them. Chintpurni, Naina Devi and Vaishno Devi each have their own foundation account.

Naina Devi is where Guru Gobind Singh Ji is recorded in the tradition as having performed a ceremony before 1699, which puts a Sikh episode at a devi shrine and is generally passed over quickly.

What we don't know

  • The proportion of Punjabi Sikh households that make these pilgrimages. Not surveyed and unlikely to be answered honestly if it were.

Where to check this

  1. Punjab and Himachal district gazetteer material on the Devi shrines. Punjab district gazetteers and settlement reports (Internet Archive) ↗

This page has not yet been read through by the editor. Treat it with more caution than the rest.

How this page was written. The text is compiled from the standard published histories and reference works, not from a document held in hand. Nobody from this project has visited the place or read the archive. The list above is where a reader can go to check it, not a record of what was consulted line by line. Dates and figures are the received account. If you hold something better, write in and it will be corrected.

This is one of 65 accounts in Before the Gurus, the chapter of this site covering the region before 1469, from the Indus cities to the Lodhis.