Painted rooms

The interior decoration of the Golden Temple is a body of work with its own name, and the technique of painting on plaster with gold and mineral colour is called mohrakashi. Its practitioners were called naqqash.

The same trade decorated havelis, palaces and samadhs across Punjab: floral and geometric panels, hunting scenes, portraits of the Gurus and of Ranjit Singh Ji's court, painted on to lime plaster.

Very little survives. Painted rooms were whitewashed over as tastes changed, buildings came down, and the plaster failed. Some of the Golden Temple's own work has been overpainted in successive restorations, which is a live conservation controversy.

The samadhs of Sikh sardars, small domed structures over cremation sites, often carry painted interiors and are the most neglected building type in the state.

The number of trained mohrakashi practitioners is now very small and they are concentrated around Amritsar.

Mohrakashi is the technique: a design drawn in outline and filled with mineral pigment and gold on a prepared plaster ground. Jaratkari is the inlaid stone work and tukri the mirror work.

The interiors at the Golden Temple have been repainted many times and the question of what is original and what is a later copy has never been settled by any published study.

The samadhs of sardars stand in fields and beside roads across the Majha and the Malwa, unprotected, and their painting is going with the plaster.

What we don't know

  • How many painted samadhs and havelis survive in Punjab. There is no inventory.

Where to check this

Named but not linked. These are real, findable documents. This project has not consulted them for this page.

  • Conservation literature on the Golden Temple's mohrakashi work.
  • Documentation of Punjab wall painting at Sanghol and elsewhere.

This page has not yet been read through by the editor. Treat it with more caution than the rest.

How this page was written. The text is compiled from the standard published histories and reference works, not from a document held in hand. Nobody from this project has visited the place or read the archive. The list above is where a reader can go to check it, not a record of what was consulted line by line. Dates and figures are the received account. If you hold something better, write in and it will be corrected.

This is one of 29 accounts in What the Hands Made, the chapter of this site covering the crafts, the buildings and the objects.