Wheat, and what Punjab did with it

Wheat is the food. Roti made on a tawa, phulka puffed on the flame, and in winter missi roti of wheat and gram flour with onion and chilli worked into it.

Alongside it, and older in the Malwa, are the millets: bajra and jowar, which need less water and were the staple of the dry districts before canals and procurement made wheat universal. Makki, maize, gives the makki di roti that goes with sarson da saag.

Saag is mustard greens, plus bathua and spinach, cooked down for hours, worked with a wooden ghotna, finished with makki flour and butter. It is the one Punjabi dish everyone outside Punjab knows and it is a winter dish that takes half a day.

Dairy carries the rest: lassi, dahi, paneer, khoya, and ghee used in quantities that shock outsiders. A working farmer eating this food was doing manual labour from before dawn.

Pinni, panjeeri and gur are winter foods made for warmth and for feeding women after childbirth. Gur, unrefined cane sugar boiled in an open pan at a village velna, is still made seasonally in the Doaba and sold by the block.

The Punjabi restaurant food known worldwide, butter chicken and dal makhani, was invented in Delhi in the late 1940s by Partition refugees from Peshawar. It is a refugee cuisine and it is barely eaten in Punjabi villages.

The Punjabi meat cooking that reached the rest of India came through the refugee restaurants after 1947, and the tandoori and the butter chicken were assembled in Delhi in those years.

The older Punjabi meat tradition is the slow cooked one: nihari, paya, siri, cooked overnight and eaten in the morning, and it belonged to the Muslim quarters of the towns.

Most of that went in 1947. What survives on the Indian side is in a few Amritsar and Malerkotla shops and in the memory of families who ate it before the town changed.

What we don't know

  • When millets were displaced by wheat in the Malwa diet. It is not documented at village level.

Where to check this

Named but not linked. These are real, findable documents. This project has not consulted them for this page.

  • Punjabi culinary and agricultural literature.
  • Published accounts of the origins of Moti Mahal's dishes in Delhi.

This page has not yet been read through by the editor. Treat it with more caution than the rest.

How this page was written. The text is compiled from the standard published histories and reference works, not from a document held in hand. Nobody from this project has visited the place or read the archive. The list above is where a reader can go to check it, not a record of what was consulted line by line. Dates and figures are the received account. If you hold something better, write in and it will be corrected.

This is one of 120 accounts in The Village Itself, the chapter of this site covering how a Punjabi village works and what it holds.