Achaar and what is preserved

Punjabi households preserve on the roof in the sun: mango pickle in mustard oil, lemon, carrot, cauliflower and turnip in winter, chilli, garlic, and mixed achaar in ceramic jars.

Making a year's mango pickle is a household operation done in a specific week in summer, and the recipe is family property. The jar is turned in the sun daily for weeks.

Wadi, sun-dried lentil dumplings spiced with asafoetida, and papad, are made the same way and by the same collective method, on a charpai on the roof in the heat.

Sun and salt and mustard oil are the entire preservation technology and it works in a climate that reaches the high forties.

It is women's work, done in company, on a schedule set by the season, and it is one more of the collective female institutions, along with the trinjan and the chakki, that the household refrigerator ended.

The jar matters. A martban, glazed inside and rough outside, holds the oil without reacting with it and lets a little moisture through the wall, and a household kept the same jars for decades. Plastic and steel each change what happens inside, which is why the old ones were never thrown out.

Mustard oil, salt and the household's own spice mix are the whole method, and the proportions are family knowledge rather than a recipe.

The commercial versions are made with acid and preservative, which is a different food. What a house makes is a preservation technique older than refrigeration, still practised because it tastes better.

What we don't know

  • Nothing central.

Where to check this

Named but not linked. These are real, findable documents. This project has not consulted them for this page.

  • Ethnographic accounts of Punjabi food preservation.

This page has not yet been read through by the editor. Treat it with more caution than the rest.

How this page was written. The text is compiled from the standard published histories and reference works, not from a document held in hand. Nobody from this project has visited the place or read the archive. The list above is where a reader can go to check it, not a record of what was consulted line by line. Dates and figures are the received account. If you hold something better, write in and it will be corrected.

This is one of 120 accounts in The Village Itself, the chapter of this site covering how a Punjabi village works and what it holds.